Back in Southern Oregon

I am thrilled to have received the appointment as Executive Chef at the prestigious Jacksonville Inn located in the heart of Southern Oregon's wine country.  Located in the town of Jacksonville, the Inn has long been the top culinary landmark in the Rogue Valley.  There have been many talented chefs leading the culinary team over the decades and I am proud to hold the position and carry on the exceptional food tradition at The Jacksonville Inn.

Taking over in the heart of the summer months, the busiest time of year, was a unique challenge that allowed me to immerse myself in the functions of the restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as a wonderful Sunday brunch and a tremendous amount of catered events and private parties.

Through the whirlwind that was August to now we made time to produce some spectacular menus for some very fun events as well as some tasty items that we are serving to our in-house guests...

Duck Two Ways 

This is a dish that was inspired by the local Elderberries that are found in the Rogue Valley in the late summer  months.  I make a confit of the hindquarters, cooking the duck slowly for 12 hours in duck fat and olive oil.  The thigh meat is plucked and served within the petite salad with truffle oil, roasted beets and cracklins, and topped with the crispy roasted confit of duck leg.  The duck breast is seared crisp and served over sauteed chantrelle and pig's ear mushrooms.  The two are divided on the plate by a rich Elderberry wine gastrique.  I also add a few nicely roasted Parisian potatoes to the plate-- I love potatoes and truffle oil. 

Apple Dumplings with Oregon Pinot Noir Whipped Cream

Apple Dumplings
1 C flour
2 t baking powder
1/4 t salt
2 T shortening
1/3 C water or milk
1/2 C sugar
4 apples

Mix and sift flour, baking powder and salt. Cut in the shortening with knives, add the liquid, mixing to a soft dough. Roll on a well floured board to 1/4 inch thickness. Clean, pare and cut apples into halves.  Cut dough in 4-5 inch squares. Place half an apple in the center of each square and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Moisten edge of dough and bring the four corners together around the apple. Pierce with a fork to allow steam to escape. Bake on a greased tin in a moderate oven until soft, approximately 25 minutes.

Oregon Pinot Noir Whipped Cream
To prepare whipped cream:
1 C heavy cream

In a large bowl, whip cream until stiff peaks form. Make sure not to over-beat, cream will then become lumpy and butter like. It is important to use a very cold whisk and mixing bowl for best results.

To prepare Pinot Noir Syrup:
1/2-3/4 C Oregon pinot noir
1/3 C sugar

Combine wine and sugar in a small sauce and place on medium heat. Reduce by 3/4 or until the mixture has become a syrup. Chill.  Stir the pinot syrup into the whipped cream and chill.

Fresh Alaskan Halibut and Herb Seared Scallops with Summer Vegetable White Wine Pan Sauce

Fresh Alaskan Halibut and Herb Seared Scallops with Summer Vegetable White Wine Pan Sauce

2 T olive oil
1 6-ounce halibut filet
3 sea scallops
salt and pepper to taste
2 T total of herbs, chopped (such as parsley, thyme and oregano)
1/2 C Heirloom Tomato and White Corn Salsa (recipe)
6 T white wine
2 T cream
1 t butter

Heat the olive oil in a saute' pan until it runs quickly across the bottom of the pan when tilted. Sprinkled the filet and scallops with the chopped herbs and a little salt and pepper. Place the halibut in the saute' pan to sear. Cook on high for two to three minutes, or until there is a nice sear, and flip the halibut over. Turn the heat to medium and add the scallops, cooking for several minutes until the are nearly done. Add the corn salsa, white wine and cream. Allow to simmer on high until the halibut is cooked through (this should only take two to three minutes). Finish the pan sauce by stirring in the butter and tasting for salt and pepper.

Place some of the sauce on a nice serving plate. Place the filet on top and top with more sauce. Arrange the scallops on and around the filet. 

Mushroom Duxelle Seared Ahi with Wasabi Caramel and Marsala-Soy Syrup (as seen on Cooking Central Oregon Style)

Cooking Central Oregon Style

Mushroom Duxelle Seared Ahi with Caramel and Marsala-Soy Syrup

For the Caramel: 
1 C Sugar
½ C Water
½ C Heavy Cream
¼ C Wasabi paste
Step 1:
Place 1 Cup of granulated sugar and ½ Cup Water in a small sauce pot or sauté
pan. Put on burner at medium heat. Cook the sugar-water mixture until the water
cooks off and the sugar takes on a caramel color.
Step 2:
Add the ½ cup of heavy cream and turn the burner on to low heat.  When the
cream is added the mixture will bubble as the relatively cold cream meets the hot
sugar.  It is important that the heat is turned down to low so as the caramel does not
boil over and out of your pan.  Allow the caramel and cream to incorporate
naturally on the low heat for 8-10 minutes and then stir with a wooden spoon or
high temp. spatula to combine fully.  Place caramel in a small mixing bowl and
after cooling stir in the wasabi paste until combined thoroughly.  Store in food safe
container in refrigerator until needed.


For the Marsala-Soy Syrup: 
2 C Marsala Wine
1 C Soy
¼ C Sugar
Place all ingredients in small sauce pot on medium heat.  Reduce the liquid by
three quarters.  The quantity of finished product should be between ½ and ¾ Cups.
Set aside syrup for service.
For the Mushroom Duxelle
½ lb. of  Medium mushrooms,
4 Tbs. Whole unsalted butter
Step 1:
Place mushrooms in food processor
and machine until fine.  The mushrooms
will turn into fine particulates and
become wet. This is good.
Step 2:
Melt butter in a non-stick pan that is large enough to accept the quantity of
mushrooms.  Add the mushrooms and cook on med.-high heat, stirring frequently.
Cook the duxelle until all of the water is cooked out (until the mixture stops
producing steam).  The mixture should cook to a dark brown and become very
aromatic.  It is important for our preparation that the duxelle is cooked thoroughly
dry in order to produce the “mushroom crumb” that is to be used to dredge the ahi.
The non-stick pan is very good for this and allows us to stir effectively.  When the
duxelle/crumb is ready, place the quantity on a plate lined with a paper towel to
cool.
Note:  The mushroom crumb will last for a good amount of time in the fridge, so
just use what you need each time to dredge your portion of fish for a particular
meal.  The duxelle serves as a wonderful sprinkled garnish for pasta and can be
used as a dredge for most proteins.


For the Mushroom Duxelle
½ lb. of  Medium mushrooms,
4 Tbs. Whole unsalted butter
Step 1:
Place mushrooms in food processor
and machine until fine.  The mushrooms
will turn into fine particulates and
become wet. This is good.
Step 2:
Melt butter in a non-stick pan that is large enough to accept the quantity of
mushrooms.  Add the mushrooms and cook on med.-high heat, stirring frequently.
Cook the duxelle until all of the water is cooked out (until the mixture stops
producing steam).  The mixture should cook to a dark brown and become very
aromatic.  It is important for our preparation that the duxelle is cooked thoroughly
dry in order to produce the “mushroom crumb” that is to be used to dredge the ahi.
The non-stick pan is very good for this and allows us to stir effectively.  When the
duxelle/crumb is ready, place the quantity on a plate lined with a paper towel to
cool.
Note:  The mushroom crumb will last for a good amount of time in the fridge, so
just use what you need each time to dredge your portion of fish for a particular
meal.  The duxelle serves as a wonderful sprinkled garnish for pasta and can be
used as a dredge for most proteins.



For the seared Ahi:
1 10-12 oz. “brick” of Ahi (this can vary in size depending on number of guests, your budget, etc.)
Wasabi Caramel & Marsala Soy-Syrup (recipes provided above)
1 oz. vegetable oil.
Step 1:
Dredge the ahi in the mushroom duxelle, coating thoroughly. Set aside.
Step 2:
Heat vegetable oil on high heat in a sauté pan on stove top until it runs quickly
across the bottom of the pan when tilted slightly.  Place dredged ahi “brick” in
sauté pan and cook for approximately 1 ½ minutes on each side (this could vary for
smaller or bigger pieces of fish).  We are cooking the ahi to a rare doneness.  If
your guest prefer a more thoroughly cooked piece of fish, so be it.  Set the seared
ahi aside for a couple of minutes to make it easy to handle for slicing.
Step 3:
Using a sharp knife slice the ahi thin.  “Paint” or drizzle the plate you are using for
service with some of the wasabi caramel and marsala-soy syrup.  Lay the seared
ahi on the plate in an attractive manner and serve!

Cooking Central Oregon Style

Seared Tiger Prawns with Oregon Morel Mushroom Beurre Blanc Sauce, Asparagus and Whipped Potatoes

Seared Tiger Prawns with Oregon Morel Mushroom Beurre Blanc Sauce, Asparagus and Whipped Potatoes

Beurre blanc is a simple butter-based emulsified sauce that's great with fish or seafood. The following is a basic recipe for Beurre Blanc Sauce. To make the morel mushroom beurre blanc, in a separate pan while preparing the basic beurre blanc sauce, saute' one cup of a clean sliced morel mushrooms in two tablespoons of butter on high heat. Cook until mushrooms have caramelized slightly and cooked through.  Set aside the sauteed mushrooms and allow to cool to room temperature. When the beurre blanc is completed, stir in the sauteed morels.

note: I like to include black peppercorns in the beurre blanc, especially with the mushrooms, they are to be strained out with the shallots. 

Good wines for the reduction (or au sec, meaning "nearly dry") include Chablis, Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, but any drinkable dry white will do. For a deliciously luxurious beurre blanc, try making it with leftover Champagne.

Tip: Cold butter keeps the beurre blanc emulsion from breaking.

Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 20 minutes
Total Time: 25 minutes
Ingredients:
1 cup dry white wine
½ cup white wine vinegar
1 Tbsp finely chopped shallot
1 lb unsalted butter, cold
Kosher salt, to taste

Preparation:
Heat wine, vinegar and shallots in a saucepan until the liquid boils, then lower the heat a bit and continue simmering until the liquid has reduced down to about 2 tablespoons. This should take about 10 minutes.

While the liquid reduces you can cut the butter into medium (½-inch) cubes, but either leave this until the reduction is nearly finished or return the butter cubes to the refrigerator to keep them cold while the liquid finishes reducing.

Once the wine-vinegar mixture has reduced to 2 tablespoons, reduce the heat to low and start adding the cubes of butter, one or two at a time, and whisk rapidly with a wire whisk.

As the butter melts and incorporates, add more butter and keep whisking. Continue until you only have 2-3 cubes remaining. Remove from heat while whisking in the last few cubes, and whisk for a moment or two more. The finished sauce should be thick and smooth.

Season to taste with Kosher salt. Traditionally the shallots would be strained out before serving, but doing so is optional. Serve right away.

Makes 2 cups of beurre blanc sauce.

Whipped Potato Flight

Whipped Potato Flight

  Perfect potatoes with a holiday meal seems a necessity.  Here is a recipe for
our classic whipped potatoes along with some variations to put on the table.

    * 5 pounds Russet, or baking potatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks, about  1 gallon of cut  up potatoes
    * 1/2 cup milk or half-and-half, or more to taste
    * 1/2 cup butter
    * 1 Tablespoon salt, or to taste
    * 1 teaspoon white pepper

  Place potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan or Dutch oven; bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 30-35 minutes, or until potatoes are tender.

  Drain potatoes thoroughly. For the smoothest potatoes, you can put the potatoes a ricer at this point. Transfer to a large bowl. Add remaining ingredients to the bowl. With an electric hand-held mixer, or firm whisk,  whip potato mixture until light and creamy.
Mashed potato recipe serves 8 to 12.

 For Roasted Eggplant Potatoes:

 Score the skin of one large eggplant making four slits from top to bottom at inervals around the vegetable.  Place the eggplant on a roasting pan or baking sheet in a 400 degree F oven for 40-50 minutes turning once during cooking.  When the eggplant is done the skin should be firm/crisp and the inside soft and roasted.  Allow the eggplant to cool to close to room temperature or until easily handleable. 
  Prepare Classic whipped potato recipe (above) and seperate into two bowls.  On a clean cutting board, clean the roasted eggplant, using a spoon to carefully scrape the meat from the skin.  It is important to not include the skin or outside of the eggplant as it is bitter.  Place the roasted eggplant in a food processor and blend until smooth. Add the pureed eggplant to one of the bowls of classic whipped potatoes and stir in until combined.  Cover both batches of potatoes and keep warm in a low oven or in a warm area of kitchen until service.
 Roasted eggplant has a somewhat sweet and smoky quality and I enjoy it as addition to potatoes.  It goes very nicely with poultry and works well to add a vegetarian aspect to your holiday table.
 
 Roasted Sweet Pepper Potatoes:
 Prepare the Classic Whipped Potato recipe (above).
  In a mixing bowl, toss two large sweet peppers (red, yellow or orange) with a small amount (1/2 Tablespoon) of olive oil.  Place on a roasting pan in 450 degree F oven and roast until the skin is fairly dark and it has come away from the meat of the pepper.  Turn the peppers several times during cooking; the whole process should take no more than 25-30 minutes. Place the peppers back into the mixing bowl and cover with plastic, foil, or lid, and allow the peppers to rest for 10-15 minutes.  On a clean cutting board, remove the skin, seeds, and stem from the sweet peppers and place in a food processor.  Blend until smooth and stir the puree into one half of the classic potato recipe until combined.  Keep both batches of potatoes warm until service.
 The sweet pepper puree adds great flavor and a beautiful color to the potatoes.  It is something unique to serve anytime.

 Whipped Potatoes with Carrot Puree:
 Prepare Classic Whipped Potato recipe (above).
  Place a 4 quart sauce pot filled three quarters full with water on the stove top at high heat, cover and bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to medium and add four peeled and chopped large carrots to the pot and cook until very tender (20-25 minutes).  Strain the water off and place carrots in food processor.  Machine the carrots in the food processor until pureed and very smooth.  In a bowl, combine the carrot puree with one half of the batch of Classic potatoes and stir until nicely blended.  Keep both batches of potatoes warm until service.
  These carrot flavored potatoes go very nicely with a roast beef.  They turn out beautifully in color and go superbly with a meal that includes red wine.

  Pinot Noir Whipped Potatoes:
  Prepare the Classic Whipped Potato recipe (above).
  Open one bottle of Oregon Pinot Noir.  Fill one red wine glass 2/3 full and place the remainder in a 2 quart sauce pan on the stove at med heat.  Reduce the wine on medium heat for 10 minutes and then turn down to med.-low.  Reduce the wine by three quarters (30-40 minutes depending on your sauce pot).  Add the Pinot reduction to slightly more than one half of the batch of classic whipped potatoes and stir until nicely blended.  If your wine was not reduced enough and your potatoes are a little thin add more of the whipped potatoes until you have reached your desired consistency (a spoonful of potatoes should stick to your spoon if held upside down).

 These wine scented potatoes come out a very nice rosy color and have a wonderful flavor.  They go well with carrots and root vegetables and are an excellent way to thread the flavor of a wine you might be serving into your holiday meal.  Most red wines will work for this recipe (maybe not the really expensive stuff).